Cluster

[blueghost]

Hi,

I'dlike to know if this have happened to someone. I have a cluster problemon my F150 XLT 99. The digital odometer sometimes light up, sometimes not. It occurs while running. It can be lighten up, then suddenly close. Do I have to change the entire cluster unit ??? Thanks.

[Frumpy]

common problem. Happened to me too.

Not a big deal as it still counts the km, you just can't see it sometimes... but yes you would have to replace the whole cluster.

[f150phule]

I think I saw on another forum ppl that had this issue,not sure if there is a fix for it other than replacing the cluster.

[SKRWZ]

I have seen the repair for this somewhere and I cant remember where exactly at the moment but I belive the issue is a broken solder joint on the cluster if i find more info on this I will post it up for you

[Coruptyed]

ya this problem is very common, and skrwz is right there is a joint that is causeing the problem, thats how most have fixed theres.

[alpine]

Do not replace the cluster, there is an easy repair if you can get the cluster out and you have a soldering iron.
This is the site with the instructions(with pictures):

http://www.f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=126765&highlight=odometer

[blueghost]

Thanks all for answering so fast.

I planned to remove the cluster today to do a check... Will get the soldering iron out too :-)

[Bush_aholic]

well I have this probleme too, rarely happends I just tap the cluster and it lights back up rite away.....just started and my dash was taken apart not that long ago must have roughed up the connection

[blueghost]

Cluster is removed and all goes well. Didn't take a lot of time.
However, soldering iron is out and magnifying glass is not very good :icon_cry:

Will wait tomorrow and get another one at Canadian tire...

Hope re-connnecting it will be that easy lolll.

Thanks all for your help, it was really appreciated :icon_cool:

[sledmanjones]

I did this on my 99 and it was very easy.Just get the soldering iron hot and heat each pad on the odometer until it liquefies,if there is very little solder and you feel you need to add some,get solder for electronics,not for pipes, but it works great,and doesn't cost much more than your time to do it.

[blueghost]

It's finally done. There was two missing bulbs/socket on it (ABS and Service Engine soon). The board had small scratches over these places (like they were removed and not replaced), so I bought two others to replace the missing ones. Everything goes well and Odometer is now functionning @ 100%. Still ABS is always on, but I will enquire on that one later... Will buy an OBDII code reader on Ebay to help me out a little :icon_smile:

I read a lot about F150 on internet and particularly on this site and F150online. There's a lot of good stuff to help us out with probs or mods :icon_smile:

Thanks to all of you guys.

[f150phule]

Still ABS is always on, but I will enquire on that one later...

You may want to get that checked out ASAP. When that light is on it will disable the ABS system from working. Its most likely just a bad ABS sensor on the rear differential. When I bought my truck the same thing would happen. After 3 trips to the dealer they finally replaced the proportioning valve and I havent had the ABS light come on since,that was over 2 years ago.

[alpine]

Still ABS is always on, but I will enquire on that one later...

Do you have 4 wheel abs or rear wheel abs?

[blueghost]

F150phule, the brakes still works... and since I am moving in Ontario this summer, I need to have an inspection on the truck. For sure, it have to be totally repaired by then. But I have probable more important thing do repair right now...The windshield is all cracked and it's a $400 job + probably a hub to change and my budget is like very limited for now :icon_sad:

Alpine, i'm not too sure about it. I have to verify but the mechanical course I took was when I was 18 and ABS was probably on the more luxury vehicule or not existing at all at that time (1987-88). Since I did not choose to work as a mechanic I recycle to computers...
Can we see this info with the VIN of the truck :icon_question:
or simply going under and locate these sensors :icon_question:

Thanks.

[alpine]

If it is 4 wheel abs I think you're going to the dealer. If it is rear wheel you can at least find out what is setting off the abs light and if you're lucky you might be able to fix it. I will post the first part and when you find out how many flashes you get post it here or pm me and I will tell you what the problem is. Remember this is for rear wheel only.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), Retrieving

CAUTION: Care must be taken to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the mating connector wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.

Verify the ignition switch is in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS diagnostic connector C207. The diagnostic connector C207 has two mating halves, one of which has a black/orange (BK/OG) wire connected to it. Disconnect the two halves.

Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black/orange (BK/OG) wire side of the diagnostic connector C207. Ground the opposite end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a ground until the ABS light begins to flash. Grounding this wire should start the yellow ABS warning indicator flashing. If grounding this wire does not start the yellow ABS warning indicator flashing, go to the Symptom Chart.

The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. This code will be used later for system repair instructions. It should be written down for future use. A diagnostic trouble code 16 is obtained when the anti-lock brake control module detects normal system operation.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), Erasing

The last step of the system pre-check always includes clearing the keep alive memory (KAM). Turn off the ignition while the diagnostic connector C207 halves are separated as described in Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Retrieving. The diagnostic connector C207 should be re-assembled to provide KAM power to the anti-lock brake control module.

The diagnostic connector is behind the passenger kick panel.
Good luck!

[Bush_aholic]

If you need to replace a hub that is most likley why your ABS light is on. Replace the hub before you look into the ABS probleme....Just repaced the Front left hub on the f250 and when I change it the ABS light turned off, it had turned on about a few days before my hub was done. There should be ABS wires conected to the problem hub. Your brakes will still work fine just no ABS for now

[blueghost]

Thanks for the procedure Alpine. I will verify / change the hub on the left side first as it really annoy me... then, if the ABS still on, I will start your procedure.

Thanks Alpine for your comment too. Is there special tool I need for the hub changing ? I know I must remove the wheel, remove the caliper, then the rotor... but anything else ? Do I need a puller ? If you have a procedure, it will be greatly appreciated.

As usual , thanks all for your good advice :worthy:

[blueghost]

Oops second part it "Thanks Bush_aholic" sorry :)

[blueghost]

Alpine,

Can you tell me what the connector looks like ?

I removed the right underdash panel where the fuel reset switch is.
There is one small black connector that connect in a plastic like connector with no wire on the other part. This one have a og/blk wire.
There was a blue connector pointing to thr dash bust with nothing connected too.
There was also a big grey connector who has a og/blk wire. This one add wire at the other side and is located on the center of all other connectors and is much bigger.


Just want to be sure to mess with the good wire :icon_smile:

Also, it's really a 4 wheel ABS. I turned the wheel tonight, take time to inspect and saw the brake hose and an electrical connection just beside it that goes to the assembly.

By the way, the hub assembly is $519 at NAPA, $ 439 at Carquest and I found a place on the south shore that is $ 219 for the 4wd ABS...

If you know of a place that have better price, please let me know :-)

[alpine]

Unfortunately the procedure I gave you is for rear wheel abs only, according to my manual the 4 wheel abs requires a tester that the ford dealer has to download the codes. As far as hub prices I have 2 wheel drive so I have never had to price a hub. Anyone else know a good price?