Exhaust leak

[Fordwheeler]

On a recent trip my exhaust started leaking, the bolts that go from the manifolds to the rest of the exhaust let go. Well only one let go but I am replacing all of them because the old ones are almost completly gone between the flanges. My problem now is I can't get the portion that is left in the manifolds out. If I pull the manifolds off would a shop be able to get them out or do I need new manifolds as well? Is it even possible to remove the manifolds with the motor in place? The bottom bolts look like they are gonna be a P.I.T.A

Oh yeah it's a 97 f-150 4.6 v8

[SKRWZ]

97 - 04 2v motors were known for the exhaust manifold studs letting go particularly at the rear of the manifold, the bottom bolts are a little PITA but it can be done with the motor in the truck through the wheel well , [remove the inner fender + wheel], soak the studs with penetrating oil for a few days it should make removing the manifold easier, and once removed the broken one you have should have enough to grab onto to get it out

[Fordwheeler]

I'm soaking them in liquid wrench now then it's going to a mechanic. I'm in a little over my head on this one, especially since most of my tools are in storage. Thanks for the help anyway.

[LayinHp]

yea mines got the same problem one reason i bought headers.... havent tackeled the problem yet maybe this winter sort of sounds like an old farm truck with the engine tick lol

[Fordwheeler]

Mine is extremly loud, scared me when it let go.

[SKRWZ]

When I did mine I sprayed them twice a day for a week and they came out no problem

[Fordwheeler]

So after deciding to do it myself I am having a couple issues lol

I picked up a set of manifolds at pick n pull, the nuts (with studs still attached to the nuts) came off with a 13mm socket no problem or liquid wrench. But on my truck 13mm is too big so is 12 and 11mm too small. Tried 1/2" too big tried 7/16" too small. Am I missing something or do I just take the die grinder to the nuts then remove the studs?

Issue #2 Is there a trick to removing the manifold to collector studs from the manifold? (whats left of them anyway)

Thanks in advance

[SKRWZ]

Your manifold bolts/nuts may have rust and crap on them I do believe the proper size is 13mm when I did mine I used my bolt outs http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?mv=rr they came in really handy for that job, and for the collector nuts I have an impact so it wasn't an issue for me but if you have to just cut them off or try a breaker bar

[Fordwheeler]

I'm gonna try those bolt outs, thanks. The problem with the collector studs is that there isn't much left of them to grab on to. I'll take a pic and post it.

[Fordwheeler]

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh115/Drumhellionsean/P6240001.jpg

[fordfan22]

is that what the ticking is in my engine? 99 f-150 4.6? only does it when cold start. once engine heats up to temp it seems to go away.

[SKRWZ]

is that what the ticking is in my engine? 99 f-150 4.6? only does it when cold start. once engine heats up to temp it seems to go away.


It's possible you would have to check first but the rear exhaust studs are known to break causing leeks

[Fordwheeler]

Mine was only a ticking at first and also went away when the engine warmed up. But a long highway drive really opened it up.

[LayinHp]

exactly how mine is, cold it ticks like an old farm truck and when it gets hot its almost gone but its still there

[Bush_aholic]

I'm the same as LayinHp I broke a couple studs and that just gave me a reason to buy some good headers. I let a shop take care of the swap because I really did not feel like tackling those studs myself and they can be fun to get out. One of the best parts of after market headers is you replace the studs with bolts.

[fordfan22]

common problem with our years i guess. i met a guy who had the EXACT same truck as mine, down to the color. and he started it up, and i said hey!, it even sounds like mine. same tick and everything. its annoying and i want it fixed. i guess i should bring it in.

[Fordwheeler]

Well that problem is solved now, took it in to have it done. But I guess the noise was not only the exhaust leak but also one of my spark plug holes has striped. How hard is it to fix that? I allready have a quote from one place just want to see if it is worth doing myself.

[SKRWZ]

I would do a timesert repair in the head their proven to be the way to go on this type of repair http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html and a link to the part # of the kit as well http://www.timesert.com/html/ford.html this repair can be done with out removing the head from the truck heres the how to video's http://www.timesert.com/html/install.html

[Fordwheeler]

Where did you buy yours and how much was it?

[shelbyx1]

the thread inserts are a quick fix but can come out from heating/cooling eng,you could also replace the heads with some PI heads(built after late 99)they have more threads and flow slightly better.m2c:)

[Fordwheeler]

I know of a 4.6 in a scrap yard that I could get the heads off of, but not sure of the year. If I go that route what should I check on the new heads before pulling them? How do I tell what year the motor is?

[SKRWZ]

Where did you buy yours and how much was it?

I bought a timesert kit from used from a member off another board for a just in case thing in-case i ever need it [knock on wood] just hope i never need it yet

the thread inserts are a quick fix but can come out from heating/cooling eng,you could also replace the heads with some PI heads(built after late 99)they have more threads and flow slightly better.m2c:)

Good idea but don't forget if you put PI heads on a NON PI engine it will raise your compression ratio close to 10:1 and you will need a custom tune done and don't forget the PI intake as well