Here's an even simpler solution for you: stacked washers.
I have torn apart the front TTB suspension in mine and built a set of 3" coil spacers for a 2½"ish lift (front coils are bagged a bit) with camber bushings, and removed the sway bar. All I did was stack about 6 or 8 5/16" washers under the upper bottom shock bushing to move the shock down about ¾" and it works well. I do have to order a set of STX model "highrider" shocks since they're an inch longer, and with the loosened up camber bushings and removed sway bar I gained a lot more than an inch more of downward travel, front now sits around 8"+ suspension travel instead of the stock 4" travel. On your torsion bar front end, I couldn't see you gaining any more suspension travel just by cranking them - you're still limited by the A-arms and torsion bars.
The rear shocks you don't need to worry about. I did 2" add-a-leafs and 2" lift shackles which settled to about 2½" lift, and the stock length shocks limit the downtravel perfectly to where the ABS wire and brake lines limit, yet still sink into the wheelwells when the tires rub the inner fender and body panels. I used a set of non-bumpstop lift blocks instead of the OEM ones so the tires stuff a little more. At 11" of travel they work well, and it uses the full 11" travel too. Removing the rear sway bar helped that immensely. The rear suspension in your Ranger should be about the same. LR
'09 Ford Ranger FX4 with a mean owner