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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Another dreaded exh manifold question

Hey Guys,


I guess I need to get this issue looked after sooner than later after making a highway pass and opening up that godawful exhaust leak noise to where its become unacceptable now.

I'm having a damn hard time even finding anyone that wants my money when stopping in and asking for approx costs to do the job (rear studs/bolts on both sides are broken on my 99 f150 5.4). They all do the "oh man, thats a nasty job to do, blah blah blah...." but in the end, no approx price, no interest in the job.

Now, from what I've been able to find around online a dealer job is @ $1500 including manifolds, gaskets & stud/bolt replacements with the newer stainless steel. This is only providing the heads don't have to come off for drilling and re-tap/inserts.

However, if I'm needing to go this route I find I'm at the teeter point of deciding if I should just choose upgrading to headers and possible newer heads since it would already be apart.

I'm not a rich man as I'm on disability and in the middle of a lawsuit for an accident 3 years ago, so I'm calling on the community for their experiences, prices, route taken, and the shops that have handled this repair/upgrade for them.

Any help or suggestions out there ??

Thanks in advance,
Greg

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 12:53 PM
 
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I'd definitely go with headers since the manifolds are coming off anyways



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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 02:44 PM
 
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yeah id go with the headers aswell


they should be able to drill and tap the heads in the truck without removeing the heads, there easier to work on on the bench that way but add alot of cost for no more then convieniance



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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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I've done some more reading around, and although it was on a different year, others have been stating it can be done with better access by removing the inner fenders and wheels.

So, I guess I'll have to put that scenario forward when confronted with the difficulties given by whoever is quoting me for the job (that is, if I can even get that far with these lazy friggin mechs).

I'm kinda hoping here that some other members will share their success with finding a garage or dealership (that wont RAPE), not too too far from my own location, what it ended up costing them in the end, and whether the fix has stayed a "fix".

thks for the comments so far......

-Greg

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-Larry
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-13-2010, 05:30 PM
 
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personally I'd try an exhaust shop rather than a normal garage. After all it is there expertise



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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 12:10 PM
 
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I want to Midas and they did it for 650$ , but the manifold was replace with a OEM. They removing the inner fenders and wheels and drill and tap the heads in the truck. oh! and this was only on the right side.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 06:31 PM
 
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I just got both my manifolds done because they were leaking and making an annoying ticking sound when accelerating. Ran me $500 with parts (bolts, gaskets, egr tube, and one O2 Sensor) and labour (4hrs). Got it done at a local garage.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dank_44 View Post
I just got both my manifolds done because they were leaking and making an annoying ticking sound when accelerating. Ran me $500 with parts (bolts, gaskets, egr tube, and one O2 Sensor) and labour (4hrs). Got it done at a local garage.

So that was without manifolds or headers right ?? Did they have to drill out any of the heads ? or were you one of the lucky ones who never see's that Murphy guy in your life, lol...

Where abouts is Creemore anyways ?? I have a feeling its not in my area cause it would be my luck when the price is pretty good.

I found some JBA Cat4ward stainless shorty's for $550.00 +tax Cdn to my door and might as well put them on while its apart.


I can't do muffler shops, and ESPECIALLY Midas (I'm not welcome there anymore after tearing the owner a new AH for absolute stupitiy with an installation on my old Blazer years back). But thanks for the suggestion...

-Greg

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 10:05 PM
 
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I did mine myself in my driveway I took the front wheels off and the inner fender liners out, I had a couple broken studs on the left (drivers side) before I started the job I soaked the studs daily for a couple weeks with some penetrating oil I still needed some heat to get a few of the studs out and for the broken ones I have a set of "BOLT OUT" tools I got from sears a few years back that came in handy I did replace my factory manifolds with a set of JBA/Gibson shorty headers, I think I was at it for about 3- 4 hours a side with all the playing around I had to do and I didn't have to drill out any studs either, I was lucky I guess but it does help to soak the bolts, it's not a hard job but more of a PITA one if your prepared for it will go OK

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Aside from not having my shop set up yet with tooling nor a compressor, my last accident has left me pretty much useless beyond basic, non contortionist type repairs and tune up stuff.

I've had a few friends offer to help (which means more or less do the whole damn thing in my case), but I'm too nervous about drilling out the two that have broken flush at the rear with the head surface (one on each side), and two that have only left a slight exposed dimple to mess with from a backyarder on alumn heads.

I ordered the kit, and have found an acquaintance from the past whose a mechanic willing to take on the job. I booked it for mid next week to allow a few dowsings of AD-2000 penetrant to hopefully work its magic and aid the repair.

Thanks for the input people, I'll update once the jobs done......

-Greg

Inside every older person is a younger person wondering, 'What the heck happened?'
-Larry
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