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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Such a weird problem...

K guys, got a really weird problem. Started up my truck today, pulled out of my driveway, turned my stereo on to the radio. No sound, radio was working an displaying the radio station. turned it up, no sound. chose the CD option, heard the disk seek/spin up but no sound. So i pull over and put the truck in PARK so i can take a look. SOUND, radio, sweet im happy. put it in drive and the sound goes out.
So this is what i know, the sound comes out of the speakers when the truck is in park or neutral. with reverse or drive the sound stops.

what the hell guys? anyone have any insight. im out of warranty on the bumper to bumper as far as i know. 3 years old. 25000km.

6 disc optional pioneer deck with sub and amp in the console - its was an option that i paid for with the truck.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 10:46 PM
 
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Just guessing but maybe something with the speed sensitive setting on the radio itself.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 10:58 PM
 
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Maybe a short in the system? Does it do it each time it is in park/neutral?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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@wolfman1, there is no speed sensitive setting on that deck
@cowboy, yes it does it each time the truck is in park/neutral. so bizarre
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2010, 05:48 AM
 
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Odd. Here's some ideas I thought you could try.

Assuming this is something like the Tremor audio package, I'm looking at my factory manual wiring diagram. All 4 speakers and the subwoofers are connected to the radio amplifier. I think that's the one under the console, like you said.

Since the radio in the dash still seems to have power, but the sound cuts out, that would seem to point at the radio amp. in the console.

That amplifier is supplied by a 40A fuse in the battery junction box under the hood. It should be live at all times. It's labelled 'F2'.

Check the fuse to make sure it's good. Use an ohm meter, just to be sure. Pull it, and plug it back in. Make sure it's well-seated.

I think the amp is switched on and off by 2 wires coming from the radio, labelled in the diagram as ENABLE / CLIP DETECT. No idea what the voltages should be on those wires when it's normally operating?

If the fuse check didn't fix it, then the next thing I'd do is get out the voltmeter and check the power at the amplifier itself. According to the manual, there's a grey connector on the amp. Two yellow/red wires are heavier 12 gauge. Thats the wires going to the fuse in the battery junction box. The two 12 gauge black/blue wires are your ground. Probe those wires at the connector. You should be getting normal battery voltage.

Then watch the voltage when the truck is in gear vs. neutral/park. Does it change? Also, can you replicate the problem with the engine *not* running? ie., with the key in the acc. position, can you change gears and make it fail?

If the voltage to the amp stays the same, then the next guess would be the ENABLE/CLIP signal from the radio, which is telling the amp to shut down or resetting it, for some reason.

If the voltage on the power supply wires drops when you change gears, then maybe you have an alternator/charging problem? The theory being that when you go from park to drive, the engine RPMs drop a bit, reducing the voltage from the alternator, if you have a fishy voltage regulator.

That would mean your subwoofer issue isn't the actual problem, but a symptom of something else.

I'd be curious to know if the problem exists when the ignition is just in the ACC position, with the engine off. That would mean just the battery is running the system.

If Princess Auto were a real girl, I'd ask her to marry me.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2010, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanx so much for the response and suggestions b4000. yes the issue still happens when the key is in the ACC position and i change the gear positions.
do you have any diagrams on how to get to the amp/sub under the center console, i'd like to know where to start so im not ripping and tearing plastic pieces off lol.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2010, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ok I'm extremely confused now, I went out to run a few tests just a few minutes ago and it works as it should, took a drive around using everything I could think of electronic and it worked perfectly. If this is an intermittent issue this will be frustrating to deal with
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 11:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotShotMedic View Post
thanx so much for the response and suggestions b4000. yes the issue still happens when the key is in the ACC position and i change the gear positions.
do you have any diagrams on how to get to the amp/sub under the center console, i'd like to know where to start so im not ripping and tearing plastic pieces off lol.
Well, since you mentioned the problem now appears to be intermittent, my next guess would be a loose connection somewhere. I don't have an automatic, so I have no idea where the shift linkages go, but maybe one of them is contacting the wiring harness somewhere and moving a loose connector?

Re: removing centre console.
I don't have a means to scan the manual at the moment, but you really don't need a diagram. It's very simple.

-There are two oval shaped covers near the back of the console, below the armrest, one on each side. Pry those off and there are 2 bolts on either side that hold the armrest bracket on. Remove the 4 bolts.

- There are a couple of screws at the front of the console, beneath the cupholders, and a couple underneath where the armrest bracket was.

- Can't remember if there are some screws inside the console, but you'll see them if there are.

That's about all there is to it.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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problem has never reoccured. strange.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 03:25 PM
 
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See? You fixed it -- with your mind!

If Princess Auto were a real girl, I'd ask her to marry me.
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