degass bottle refilled acouple times - FordTough.ca - Home of Canadian Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Ranger Forum ALL YEARS ALL MODELS

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
age
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ontario
Posts: 20
degass bottle refilled acouple times

got the new 2010 2.3L standard and when i picked it up in april the degas bottle was half full, I drove it 2472 kms and it went to minimum, refilled it to 3/4 and now at 4480 kms its back to min level. I figured I put in about 200 mls total of that super gold antifreeze per spec, thats less then a cup. I spoke to ford and brought it in ,the visually inspected it figuring I'm over reacting. because it was running both times it was hot so the level was up between high and low mark, 2 times. Had I not refilled it would be way below, minimum mark.

last time on the way back from toronto I dropped into the dealer I bought from in burlington and the service manager said it could be a air lock, I'm thinking other wise.
For a new truck is it possible of a air lock seeing I'm using the heater but I feel thats strange for a new vehicle,thats suppose to be pdi'd hahahahahha. In the summer I wasnt using heater, evaporation possible, heat, block heater?

its back to minimum , the guy said bring it in when its a inch below minimum, OK, so what a guy to do? I have to keep adding, the degas level between high and low holds like a cup 250mls, sh*tty design if my calcs are right.

I downloaded ford service tech page and it says to fill to max when its cold.
another forum says to run it at minimum.
Any ford techs here who work on the 2.3 engine and know the cooling system or members who are acquainted with this?
Is this a classy name for a overflow system can?
I'm waiting for my 9000 first check to have it pressure tested, demanding. I usually do my first oil change at 5000, way ahead of ford recommendation.
but this time I will wait because of this coolant thing. It might be a air lock???
age is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 06:15 PM
 
Lone Ranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Fernridge, BC
Posts: 712
Send a message via MSN to Lone Ranger
I've been hearing that the new Jeep JK's are having airlock issues with their 3.7L engines (heatercores), so it very well could be happening on your Ford as well. I have 46K on my 4.0L and I've had to top it up a couple of times as well, I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. It takes a little bit for the engine to break in, and it takes a bit to work all of the air out and all the seals to break in properly. As long as there's still coolant in your overflow tank, don't worry about it [this is akin to the argument of whether you should keep your oil level at add or full - as long as there's oil in your engine it doesn't give a hoot. This isn't NASCAR and you're not running your engine at 9500 rpm!]. Just my .02. LR

Matt T.

'09 Ford Ranger FX4 with a mean owner
Lone Ranger is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
age
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ontario
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Ranger View Post
I've been hearing that the new Jeep JK's are having airlock issues with their 3.7L engines (heatercores), so it very well could be happening on your Ford as well. I have 46K on my 4.0L and I've had to top it up a couple of times as well, I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. It takes a little bit for the engine to break in, and it takes a bit to work all of the air out and all the seals to break in properly. As long as there's still coolant in your overflow tank, don't worry about it [this is akin to the argument of whether you should keep your oil level at add or full - as long as there's oil in your engine it doesn't give a hoot. This isn't NASCAR and you're not running your engine at 9500 rpm!]. Just my .02. LR
I agree the air bubbles have to work there way out of the system, and theres probably air trapped in heater core until you run it awhile to work it all out.
We will just keep an eye on it.
age is offline  
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
age
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ontario
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by age View Post
I agree the air bubbles have to work there way out of the system, and theres probably air trapped in heater core until you run it awhile to work it all out.
We will just keep an eye on it.
but now I got ?????? I checked my oil dip stick and its BLACK, 4500kms on a new engine with a black dipstick tells me theres something strange?
it should be a golden colour or an off brown? I think I will take it in next week and have them check it. I dont know what oil they stick in them at the plant , I'm not big on this 5- 20 weight stuff they want to use for warranty all for the sake of energy savings verses 5-30 or 10-30
age is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 07:36 AM
 
Maritime Storm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Riverview, NB, Canada
Posts: 122
Actually the engine was desinged to run on 5W20, 5W20 actually holds it's viscosity longer over time then a 5W30 does. At 4500kms, if it's dirty, change it. When I buy a new vehicle, the oil and transmision fluids get changed at the 1500kms to get the break-in wear materials out, then after that the oil gets changed every 5k/3months and transmission fluid every 2 years.
Maritime Storm is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 07:35 PM
 
Blue Oval's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Brantford, ON
Posts: 449
What about removing the rad cap and idling it in your driveway for 5 minutes or so to try and help the air work it's way out? Of course, this assumes the fill neck is the highest point in the system...
Blue Oval is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
age
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ontario
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maritime Storm View Post
Actually the engine was desinged to run on 5W20, 5W20 actually holds it's viscosity longer over time then a 5W30 does. At 4500kms, if it's dirty, change it. When I buy a new vehicle, the oil and transmision fluids get changed at the 1500kms to get the break-in wear materials out, then after that the oil gets changed every 5k/3months and transmission fluid every 2 years.
sorry I didnt respond to my post, to much stuff happening.
today I changed the oil on the beast and I topped it up acouple of weeks ago to max on the degas bottle. Now if this thing had been pdi, which we all have to pay to have them prepped before they hand them over to you to drive, I shouldnt be playing the topping game. the other thing is I dont drive it, because I ride a bicycle most of the time in summer, you know the fitness thing.

something stinks when you got black dirty oil on a new engine, thats super clean to start with, I can see a slugger with 100k on it, but his oil came out black not a tea brown, like black.
.
Not big on the 5w-20 but might as well keep ford happy incase we got a warranty issue. the degass bottle is holding at level so far, but we will keep an eye on it. were up to 5080 kms now.
age is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Diesel warmup times Fordwheeler Super Duty Forum 8 11-09-2008 11:06 AM
Edge tuner times Bush_aholic Programmers and Tunes 5 01-07-2008 11:42 AM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome