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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: MB
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Brake Issue

hey guys. i towed a tandem axle 15 foot trailer on the weekend, towed about 300km there and back, everything was ok, brakes were good. saturday night i unhook the trailer drive home everything is ok. Wake up on sunday, go for a drive and i notice that i only get about 2 or 3 pumps until the brake pedal is stiff as a rock and has maybe 15% stopping power.

But the thing is, if i get in start it, the first time i press the brakes i have 100% braking power and its seems ok, but like i say after 2 pumps its solid. And then if i just drive and dont press the brakes for a few seconds its like the backpressure in the pedal has released and i get another 1 or 2 pumps and does it again.

Fluid isnt low, and had absoloutely no issues prior to towing the trailer. However right before i unhooked it i had some loser slow right down infront of me so i had to press the pedal a little harder then id normally like too but i didnt jam on the pedal or anything.

Im guessing its gonna have to go to the dealer but id like to hear maybe what Shelby says so i'm not playing the back and forth game with stealership.

"The Dark Knight"
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 08:52 AM
 
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check your wheels to see if there's any significant heat coming from them after you drive for a bit. Another good indicator would be alot of brake dust buildup on the offending wheel. If there is, chances are you have a sticky caliper or broken/cracked caliper piston. It's pretty easy to replace and even easier to grease if that's all it needs.

I'm no expert but it just happened to me - twice in two weeks.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 11:51 AM
 
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sounds like SCrew has it right. before you take it in just do a drive then check all your brakes. i have had a sticky caliper or 2 in the past couple years

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2007 F-150 FX4
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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can i remove it without taking off the wheel or the caliper. maybe try blasting it with compressed air?

its also under 3 year warranty until october so wouldnt i be better off just taking it in

"The Dark Knight"
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 01:44 PM
 
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I doubt the warranty covers your brakes but I can't say for sure.

Like I said before, take it for a drive for 5 mins or so... less will probably do. Hold the back of your hand next to the middle of each wheel and determine if any of the wheels have alot of heat coming from them. I suspect it'd be one of the back wheels causing your problems - if it was your front wheel locking up, you'd really feel it when trying to accelerate and turn.

I'm not sure what exactly you're asking but you need to take the wheel off to get at the caliper. You don't need to unhook your brake line to the caliper though - unless it is going to be replaced. So, in summary:

chock the wheels properly, jack up whichever corner of the truck you think is the problem after loosening the lug nuts for that wheel a bit. Once the wheel's off the ground, remove the lug nuts and wheel. On the back of the caliper remove the two bolts (12mm maybe?). Remove the outer brake pad (it only comes out one way) and then the caliper will slide out. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. Remove the other brake pad (inside) and check the caliper piston to see if it's damaged or stuck. If the piston is cracked or broken or if the rubber boot is torn causing it to seize, you'll need to replace it. Napa can get you a reman for about $100 once you return your old core. If you have to replace your caliper, do a quick google search for instructions. It's pretty easy.... you'll need a friend to help you bleed the brakes when it's all done.

Hope this helps!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCrew Lariat View Post
I doubt the warranty covers your brakes but I can't say for sure.

Like I said before, take it for a drive for 5 mins or so... less will probably do. Hold the back of your hand next to the middle of each wheel and determine if any of the wheels have alot of heat coming from them. I suspect it'd be one of the back wheels causing your problems - if it was your front wheel locking up, you'd really feel it when trying to accelerate and turn.

I'm not sure what exactly you're asking but you need to take the wheel off to get at the caliper. You don't need to unhook your brake line to the caliper though - unless it is going to be replaced. So, in summary:

chock the wheels properly, jack up whichever corner of the truck you think is the problem after loosening the lug nuts for that wheel a bit. Once the wheel's off the ground, remove the lug nuts and wheel. On the back of the caliper remove the two bolts (12mm maybe?). Remove the outer brake pad (it only comes out one way) and then the caliper will slide out. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. Remove the other brake pad (inside) and check the caliper piston to see if it's damaged or stuck. If the piston is cracked or broken or if the rubber boot is torn causing it to seize, you'll need to replace it. Napa can get you a reman for about $100 once you return your old core. If you have to replace your caliper, do a quick google search for instructions. It's pretty easy.... you'll need a friend to help you bleed the brakes when it's all done.

Hope this helps!
ok well on futher inspection im pretty sure this is not the issue.

I drove the truck to my place from my girlfriends.. about a 10 min drive. got there immediately checked the wheels they were ALL cool to to the touch no unusual brake dust and absoloutely NO heat whatsoever on any of the wheels.

i dont know if maybe i explained it wrong. But there is like 50% braking power but you only get one push to the floor and the the pressure is built up and you cant push it anymore. But if you dont try to push it, it slowly releases the pressure. Any other ideas? because if it was sticking then i forsure would have noticed even when driving. But like i said no heat at the wheels

"The Dark Knight"
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 12:02 PM
 
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I would say if you still have warranty take it in? Can't say for sure what that might be, interesting problem for sure.

prairiethunder
2007 F-150 FX4
2007 F-150 King Ranch
1989 F-150 XLT
1949 F-1
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 12:29 PM
 
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I agree - that's messed.

I'm definitely not qualified to try to try to help with that one!

good luck!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 05:47 PM
 
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Sounds a bit like a power booster problem.

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