NEED HELP: 06 6.0 - FordTough.ca - Home of Canadian Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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06 6.0

I have an 06 6.0 with about 135,000 km, it has had head studs installed, replaced injectors, rebuilt FICM, EGR cooler delete and H&S programmer installed. I have owned it for about 18,000 km and have had no problems, until now. It suddenly started cranking for a long time before starting, no codes and runs great. Regular oil changes and fuel filters, anyone got any ideas?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 10:37 AM
 
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First thing you want to do is get both batteries load tested. These trucks don't like weak batteries. Have you done the STC fitting upgrade? Not sure what code reader you're using,
My tuner (SCT Livewire) gave me a P2291 when my STC fitting blew, It's the fitting that comes off the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) and they are very prone to blowing. If you have to "go there", I recommend not only the Ford STC fitting upgrade, but also installing upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs which you can buy in kit form, from the dealer too. Here's a link to a site all Powerstroke owners should be a member of: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...dition-252803/ That link takes you to the no-start thread but should help you as you may end up with a no-start...I did! Let us know what you make of this. We can help you.


The Hauler - '05 F-350 4x4 CC Dually 6.0 Powerstroke
The Project - '90 Ford Bronco 4x4
The wife's - '11 Ford Escape
For every minute you are away from work...you can add two minutes to your life!
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanx alot for your tips, the engine turns over no problem, I'll test the batteries anyways, I have tested for codes with my programer and a snap-on scanner. It only seems to have this problem when it is warmed up! I will check out thedieselstop site.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 12:35 AM
 
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Ya, it definitely sounds like a high pressure oil issue. When the oil is cold, it's thicker and will build more pressure to fire the injectors. Once the oil starts heating up, it thins out and the pressure drops and if you don't get the minimum 500psi, the motor won't run. Keep us posted.

When I upgraded my motor, I remember counting no less than 13 0-rings for the high pressure oil system. Any one of those let go, you're on the side of the road. That's why I recommend doing it all. And if your original oil cooler is still in place, put in an upgraded one there too, while things are apart anyway. Then you can look at the coolant flush to ELC coolant and maybe a coolant filter kit, which is a good investment. Oh, and look up the "blue spring" upgrade to keep your injectors in good shape. Sorry if I'm spending your money. These are just some of the quality upgrades that will make your 6.0 stay reliable.


The Hauler - '05 F-350 4x4 CC Dually 6.0 Powerstroke
The Project - '90 Ford Bronco 4x4
The wife's - '11 Ford Escape
For every minute you are away from work...you can add two minutes to your life!
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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hey, guess what? I got the no start! and a 2291 code! after 1 hour it started up no problem, I ran it till it got warmed right up again and it started no problem, several times. is it possible I have a sticky IPR
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 11:59 PM
 
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I suppose it's possible. I've heard about guys having to repair pigtails (connectors) to certain sensors because of chafing, but I haven't done enough research for a recommendation. Just remembering when I bought the STC fitting upgrade, it came with a kit to rebuild (screen and o-rings) the IPR. If you only want to try that, the turbo has to come out. I don't recommend that though as I have learned how the high pressure system works. Under the oil cooler lies a sump that holds a bout a quart of oil. There is a screen for filtering there, then the oil goes through a tube in the block and feeds the high pressure oil pump. If the screen under the oil cooler fails, and they do, chunks of stuff will make it through the HPOP to the IPR, where it has it's own screen that can tear too and cause issues.

So again, I would recommend getting the STC fitting upgrade and other related items and I would add (sorry...should have mentioned this before) an oil cooler upgrade (they are better) to the list. These are known to plug up, so if things are apart, it just makes sense to do it once, IMO.


The Hauler - '05 F-350 4x4 CC Dually 6.0 Powerstroke
The Project - '90 Ford Bronco 4x4
The wife's - '11 Ford Escape
For every minute you are away from work...you can add two minutes to your life!

Last edited by Fordsforever6.0; 09-29-2012 at 01:28 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanx for all your help, do you have a guestimate on the time involved to do the blue spring, STC and IPR(the oil cooler has already been replaced)and do you need any special tools? I am a licensed mechanic, just very little experience on diesels.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 01:51 AM
 
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I would say, plan on a full day for all that. Have lots of rags handy. I actually bought a bulk pack of those blue "Shop Rags" from Costco, I like them better than rags. I have all kinds of odd shaped/short/long wrenches. The short gear wrenches are handy for the valve covers. You'll need 10 and 12mm allen wrenches (I bought the ones that go on ratchet's...easier when you have to torque them) for the standpipes and dummy plugs. Have a magnet handy if you drop any bolts. For the STC fitting, you'll need a 15/16" crowsfoot wrench to torque it properly. The wavy rails (supplies oil to injectors) under the valve covers can be awkward to get out...and they hold a fair amount of oil, be ready for that. Each wavy rail has a stand pipe (towards rear of wavy rail) and a shorter dummy plug (towards front of wavy rail) and it is easier if you unbolt the stand pipe and take it out separately from the wavy rail. It's a bit tedious working on these motors but when you do it two or three times, it gets easier. Give yourself time, or do it in stages and make some room to keep parts organized and clean.

I'm injured and off work with a broken shoulder right now, so if you need any assistance, I'm always checking my forums. Or if you need, Pm me, and I'll give you my phone number. Good luck, Andy. Also, I've got all the part numbers handy somewhere here, if you want them.


The Hauler - '05 F-350 4x4 CC Dually 6.0 Powerstroke
The Project - '90 Ford Bronco 4x4
The wife's - '11 Ford Escape
For every minute you are away from work...you can add two minutes to your life!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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I did the STC, IPR valve, blue spring upgrade and upgraded oil rail plugs(all fromFord). Still hard start or no start when hot, with the scanner I can see that I am losing all rail pressure. I was told the fix for this was the rail plugs, the o-rings on the old ones looked good. The screen for the oil pump had no holes or signs of dirt, there was a few specs of dirt on the screen on the old IPR valve. I'm getting real frustrated, any more ideas?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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now the stand tubes are also done, same problem, desired icp-5000, actual-no higher than 1000 when hot, I cant see hot/cold oil viscocity making that much of a difference and it runs so smooth once it is started!! someone please help!!!!!!
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