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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Electrical Wiring Question

Okay, probably not the absolute correct forum to post in, but it's indirectly related to audio systems.

Long story short, my Kenwood navigation unit has been acting up and the factory can't find anything wrong with it. As a precaution, I would like to install a switched 12V feed directly from the distribution box or other suitable location rather than using the factory harness as I suspect power may be an issue. I would run a fused feed right to the battery, but I would like to have it switched.

Now, the questions: since the underhood distribution block is likely constant power, is the interior fuse block the best place to grab a circuit? If I was to use an "add a circuit", what circuit(s) would have the least load on them normally?

Failing everything else, I'll probably do some probing around with my meter and if that doesn't tell me anything maybe a service manual would be in order?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:30 PM
 
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whats the issue your having?

I've very rarely had to run my own wiring for a deck. usually it's a crappy old vehicle that has had the factory "tampered" with.. aka hacked up.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 09:25 AM
 
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I would tap it from somewhere under the dash. There are a ton of 'hot in run' wires under there. An electrical diagram would help out. Have you considered this service. You can get 5 year subscriptions for cheap if you look for coupon codes.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper238 View Post
whats the issue your having?

I've very rarely had to run my own wiring for a deck. usually it's a crappy old vehicle that has had the factory "tampered" with.. aka hacked up.
Viper, I've been having several issues, but the one I was thinking I could eliminate with a new dedicated power feed is the unit shutting down on it's own from time to time. I've done some research on various sites and it seems the Kenwood unit draws a fair amount of current; I figured since the unit is out now would be the time...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LOOSEWHEEL View Post
Have you considered this service. You can get 5 year subscriptions for cheap if you look for coupon codes.
I was doing some searching last night for manuals and found several options but wasn't sure the best option. I'll definitely investigate the alldata option. Maybe even a trip to the dealer to look at some wiring diagrams.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 09:00 PM
 
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If it is a high output deck then I recommend running a single 12v constant from the battery. now keep the ignition a.k.a. the switch in place on the factory harness because it doesn't draw it's power through there that is only the on/off signal reference.


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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If it is a high output deck then I recommend running a single 12v constant from the battery. now keep the ignition a.k.a. the switch in place on the factory harness because it doesn't draw it's power through there that is only the on/off signal reference.
If I understand you correctly, you're suggesting a 12V feed directly from the battery through a relay that is switched using the factory 12V feed to the stereo. That's actually a great idea - wish I had thought of that. Thanks!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 09:05 PM
 
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Your deck has two power sources a constant 12 volt and an ignition 12 volt.

The ignition 12 volt is the power signal that tells the radio when to turn on and off .
Then the constant 12 volt is what feeds power for the memory and supplies the main power for anything it requires.

The factory 12 volt constant at the radio harness is probably choking your deck that you have in there now.

My recommendation to run a 16 gauge Wire directly from the battery for your constant 12 volt. Make sure it is fused within 12 inches of the battery.

If you use a relay switch your constant 12 V, Your radio will never remember anything because it will be constantly reset. A.k.a. clock, presets, and equalizer settings.


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Viper.

I wasn't planning on switching the constant 12V with the relay, but after reading your explanation I didn't realize that it's the constant 12V that the deck runs off of - I thought that was simply for keeping the memory, and the 12V switched is where the deck draws its power. If that's the case my theory won't gain me anything.

The more I think about it, I will probably just put the deck back in with the harness I had, and see how it works. If I continue to have issues then I may pursue other wiring options.
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