NEED HELP: Top end rebuild instructions - FordTough.ca - Home of Canadian Ford Truck Enthusiasts
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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Top end rebuild instructions

Ok so from the top...
1994 F150, 5L roller motor
problems:

While idling the exhaust makes a puh puh sound about every 10 secs.
Compression in the rad
Eats antifreeze (small leak somewhere as well)
knock above 3000rpms

only good thing so far is the antifreeze isn't getting into the oil

So a teardown is in order and I have 0 idea past getting the intake off.
I have a "rebuilding a small block ford" book but its all about the old engines it seems. Not much to do with the roller motors.

I'd like some tips, insite, how to vids, better literature, etc on what i'm up against. Honestly breaking down the motor isn't my issue... it's the rebuild I'm worried about.

Also a parts list would be good, wouldn't mind upgrading a few things if I could. Especially the RR's. I'd like to have everything ordered before I start taking stuff apart.

help!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 08:07 AM
 
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Look at modding where the pcv valve (i believe) dumps the crap back into the motor its normally above number 8cyl I believe and it normally takes out the rings. It was a few years ago but we rebuilt a 5.0 in my dads 93f150. You can get a longblock motor for about $1000 I believe at GalesAutomotive its on the 6nations reserve close to ohsweken but no tax I think there was a $300 or $400 core charge as long as theres no piston through the block you get it back. Just an idea or you could go a performance block and upgrade.

Nevermind on the locations I thought you were another member lol pretty much the same name didnt realise you were in BC not Ont you should still be able to find the motor around that price though.



2007 F350 6.0L Ext cab short box 4x4
2000 F150 5.4L Reg cab short box 2wd
?? always looking for a new ford project !
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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HO motors are 600 complete out here. Well from a wrecker anyways.
I'm not looking to make gobs of power. The KB I have is the original 1.5L so 12psi is about as much as I'm going to make with it unless I want to over-clock the thing. More then enough to crack the block if it's got a set of trickflow heads on it.

I'm just hoping to pop the heads off... clean it up, and put it back together before anything else happens to it. I drove it 2500kms in 3 days and got 14.6mpg so it's onward and upward from here.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LayinHp View Post
Look at modding where the pcv valve (i believe) dumps the crap back into the motor its normally above number 8cyl I believe and it normally takes out the rings.
could you explain modding... add a catch can or something?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 05:46 PM
 
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you need to plug off the original pcv valve hole and re-drill another hole more center cant remember much more off the top of my head it was awhile ago now.

That price was for a rebuilt longblock... new bearings,gaskets,rings and heads were also fresh motor had warrenty to for 6months. Not a wreckers motor lol

In the end it may be cheaper to get a complete drop in motor that you know runs from a wreckers then start pulling yours apart it could end up being something in the block.



2007 F350 6.0L Ext cab short box 4x4
2000 F150 5.4L Reg cab short box 2wd
?? always looking for a new ford project !
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 06:26 PM
 
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While you've got the heads off you might as well cam it. A good RV cam will give you some get up and go. I put an HO motor in mine and put a Ford Racing E303 cam in her



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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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maybe you haven't seen my before I had kids car... this is what happens when the wife pisses me off lol.
RIP an original GTcoupe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPVpZ3j8XcI

Thats actually a really good price for a rebuilt longblock... I doubt lordco could match that
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeshow View Post
Ok so from the top...
1994 F150, 5L roller motor
problems:

While idling the exhaust makes a puh puh sound about every 10 secs.
Compression in the rad
Eats antifreeze (small leak somewhere as well)
knock above 3000rpms

only good thing so far is the antifreeze isn't getting into the oil

So a teardown is in order and I have 0 idea past getting the intake off.
I have a "rebuilding a small block ford" book but its all about the old engines it seems. Not much to do with the roller motors.

I'd like some tips, insite, how to vids, better literature, etc on what i'm up against. Honestly breaking down the motor isn't my issue... it's the rebuild I'm worried about.

Also a parts list would be good, wouldn't mind upgrading a few things if I could. Especially the RR's. I'd like to have everything ordered before I start taking stuff apart.

help!
sounds like you're setting yourself up for a lot of work. good luck.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 08:22 PM
 
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The book you have is really good. If you need info on the roller valve train just big a Haynes manual for your truck or a mustang it will have all the torque specs and a great tear down and reassembly write up with good specs. It's not as bad as you think. It might take you a day from getting the motor out to having it all ready to drop back in if you have all the parts and tools on hand you might want to have the heads checked out by a machine shop while there off just my .02$

the only things holding you back are fear and common sense
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2012, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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I bought a stang motor and dropped it in and added an Hpipe/borla dual side exhaust. Was running great till I got popped by the fuzz doing 55 in a 50 zone. Not a huge deal

Best part of that was I left the traffic stop on loose gravel (shoulder) and spun a small amount and they immediately impounded me for stunting. 7 day impound without the ability to appeal but I've been told the law was interpreted wrongfully so I'll be taking them to court. I have a picture of the loss of traction in a straight line, also you can see clearly where I let off the gas to regain traction within 1ft of where I started.

Here's the law (I'm being cited section B)
"stunt" means circumstances in which, taking into account the condition of the highway, traffic, visibility and weather, the driver or operator of a motor vehicle is driving or operating the motor vehicle without reasonable consideration for other persons using the highway or in a manner that is likely to cause harm to an individual or likely to distract, startle or interfere with users of the highway by doing any of the following:

(a) causing any or all of the motor vehicle's tires to lift from the road surface;
jumping

(b) causing the motor vehicle to lose traction while turning the motor vehicle;
fishtailing

(c) driving the motor vehicle in a manner to cause the motor vehicle to spin;
donuts

(d) driving the motor vehicle in a lane intended for oncoming traffic for longer than necessary to pass another vehicle;
unsafe pass

(e) slowing or stopping the motor vehicle in a manner that prevents other motor vehicles from passing or in a manner that blocks or impedes other motor vehicles;
road rage

(f) without justification, driving as close as possible to another motor vehicle, a pedestrian, or a fixed object.
road rage

We get all the rookies up here in Fort Nelson trying to make a name for themselves in the force but I've just learned the best way to deal with the tickets is to ask Crown to send you a copy of the injured parties in the charge. No injured parties... file for something else that does cost and your done with the ticket being thrown out before you even make it to court. Court gets some money and thats all they really want. Me, well I really want to keep those DL points down.

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