NEED HELP: 06 Ranger serious engine problem. - FordTough.ca - Home of Canadian Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2013, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
 
J.P. (Mount hope)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mount Hope Ont.
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06 Ranger serious engine problem.

Hi Guys. It's been quite some time since I visited this forum. Hope you can help me out. I'm really in a bind here.


06 Ranger (3Lt engine 2wd). Leaving work today. Not two minutes on the road and the engine sputtered. The oil light came on and I pulled over. Added some oil (Only needed about 1/2 lt). Started right up no problem. Oil light still on. Engine light on now.
About 5 Km later it starts chugging. Engine stalls an I coast into a parking lot. Labours to turn over. Wait 20 minutes try again. Engine starts (hard start) but makes a horrid loud noise. Sort of a loud clanging noise like banging two pieces of sheet metal together hard. Shut it down and call a toe truck.

At home ...Remove the serpentine belt to eliminate seized pump or alternator or whatever and start engine. Same noise. Shut it down. Pull codes.

Two instances of same code. Reads...

*P0340 ($10)
Cam shaft position sensor
Bank one or single sensor*

Under the heading "Other" it reads
*Manufacturer control*

I wrote down all the info under the heading "Freeze Frame" but I don't know if you need that.
It starts with...
DTCFRZF P0304
Fuel sys 1 CL
Fuel sys 2 N/A
Load-PCT (%) 62.0

If this is useful information I'll list everything it said.


My first thought was spun bearing but I don't know what that sounds like and it's really only a guess. Could a cam pos sensor really cause it to make that much noise? It's not a noise Ive ever heard before and Ive heard quite a few engine noises. I'm really at a loss here and don't even know where to begin. I don't want to start the engine again to try and hunt it down for fear of doing more damage.
Does this engine have a timing belt, chain or gears? I guess a skipped belt or chain might cause this and the position sensor would pick that up ...I think.

I should mention. It sputtered a bit (once for about one second) on the way to work this morning but other than that, it's been purring like a kitten.

Hope you guys can help.
If you need any more info, I'll provide all I can.
Cheers
J.P.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 11:38 AM
 
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Cam position sensor-I'm thinking your noise is pistons hitting valves due to cam timing being way off now but I am not familiar with this engine so can't say if it is belt or chain but it is probably chain driven.

Such is life. Just passing through.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmagoo View Post
Cam position sensor-I'm thinking your noise is pistons hitting valves due to cam timing being way off now but I am not familiar with this engine so can't say if it is belt or chain but it is probably chain driven.
Thanx for the reply Magoo. I was thinking it might be something like that but that wouldn't explain the oil light coming on. I was thinking perhaps my oil pump failed and that's what made me think of a spun bearing. Then again, a failed oil pump would also effect the cam and timing chain.
I might have a haynes manual for the truck. I'll have to check through the pile when I get home.
I suppose dropping the oil pan is as good a place to start as any.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 10:31 PM
 
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Cam sensor should only affect a table search criteria for the ECM, there should be a timing chain/belt involved there somewhere. If you pistons are hitting exhaust valves, you won't be running. Dropping the pan probably won't give up all that much unless there is evidence of catastrophic damage lying in the bottom. I suspect you have some damage either with a main bearing, rod bearing or a wrisp pin. If your oil pump is toast you will be doing significant damage the more you run the motor.

From what you describe I would recommend you stop driving the vehicle, pull the motor, pull the bearing caps and rod cap off and see if you have burnt bearings downstairs.

You could always hook up a mechanical oil pressure guage but that still means running the motor. I am not sure if the diagnostics report oil pressure to the ECM, I would start there.

Good Luck. What is the KM on the motor BTW, I had 320K on my 97 and it is still going strong for my brother. Come to think of it, when I pulled the heads off to do the gaskets at 300K there was push rods, so my 97 3.0l V6 was old school with a timing chain and cam, no OHC on that year. Don't know about your year.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 01:23 AM
 
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http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manford View Post
Cam sensor should only affect a table search criteria for the ECM, there should be a timing chain/belt involved there somewhere. If you pistons are hitting exhaust valves, you won't be running. Dropping the pan probably won't give up all that much unless there is evidence of catastrophic damage lying in the bottom. I suspect you have some damage either with a main bearing, rod bearing or a wrisp pin. If your oil pump is toast you will be doing significant damage the more you run the motor.

From what you describe I would recommend you stop driving the vehicle, pull the motor, pull the bearing caps and rod cap off and see if you have burnt bearings downstairs.

You could always hook up a mechanical oil pressure guage but that still means running the motor. I am not sure if the diagnostics report oil pressure to the ECM, I would start there.

Good Luck. What is the KM on the motor BTW, I had 320K on my 97 and it is still going strong for my brother. Come to think of it, when I pulled the heads off to do the gaskets at 300K there was push rods, so my 97 3.0l V6 was old school with a timing chain and cam, no OHC on that year. Don't know about your year.
Thanx for that info Manford. You pretty much confirmed what I was thinking although it was just a guess on my part based on quite limited experience. The tow truck driver managed to back the truck right into my shop (tight squeeze) and there it has sat since. All Ive done is What I mentioned in my first post.
I haven't checked the KMs in quite some time but I believe it's somewhere around 160k.
I don't see anything in the codes I wrote down that looks like it might be oil pressure. I see codes like "Fuel sys, Spark adv, RPM, Maf etc. There are some codes like Shrt FT!, Long FT2 etc. and some number codes that mean nothing to me. None of them seem to indicate PSI or similar.
Off hand I don't know if its OHC or not.

There's a retired mechanic down the road from me. I,m going to see if he'll drop by and have a look. Fortunately I have another vehicle to drive in the mean time.
Cheers
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 01:51 PM
 
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According to the shop manual there's no variable cam timing on this engine. Its just 2 gears and a chain. I'd do an oil pressure check as suggested, and maybe check the compression. Maybe the timing chain jumped a gear. If it did it would run like crap, if it runs at all. Hope you don't need an engine.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanx for the info Jimmy. Old school timing chain is simple enough but I'm afraid the damage is much worse than that.

I called an old friend today and we discussed the problem and symptoms in detail. We concluded that it's very likely a spun bearing... or two..or more. The most likely cause being loss of oil pressure. Of course I would have to find out what caused the loss of pressure as well as what caused the CPS error code.
Best case scenario is a spun bearing. Worse case could be a scrap engine.
I might be further ahead to pick up a used engine. Naturally I have to confirm what the damage is first.
Maybe this weekend I can make some time to get at it. It would sure be nice if this kind of crap would happen when I had nothing better to do rather than at the most inconvenient of times... Ya, right.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2013, 12:14 AM
 
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Have you checked the cam shaft sensor? I'd start with the easy stuff first, before tearing down the engine. It may be as simple as a loose connector? The ECU needs that signal for the engine and transmission to operate properly.

Also, the low oil pressure warning light may have only turned on because the engine was sputtering and not running smoothly at a high enough RPM to give a sufficient pressure. Any engine will do that when it's stalling, so it could just be a red herring?

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 10:25 PM
 
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1) pull the cam sensor and make sure that it's still in one piece. i see very, very few 3 litres, but i did get a 5.4 3v the other day that split the bank 1 cam sensor wide open. in that instance the right side phaser bolt walked, and the r/hamnd phaser and chain piling on top of each other took out the sensor. it ran in on one bank though! impressive lol

2) drop the oil and see how much metal comes with it. it's obvious based on your description that something is hooped ...... if you're really curious then you can cut open the oil filter, too.

sounds like it's long block time

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