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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Failed Etest

Well I took the truck in for an etest today. The place I usually to has a broken test machine, so they booked me an appointment with the Dodge dealer across the street. I had taken the truck for a 20 min run to get things all warmed up and it still failed.

It failed 2 of the 3 40kph tests.

HC ppm Limit 52 Reading 86

CO % Limit 0.29 Reading 0.63

2008 results

HC ppm Limit 52 Reading 0

CO % Limit 0.29 Reading 0.01

I don't understand how it failed so badly. In '08 when I last had it done all of the emissions stuff was stock(all original 11 yrs old). After I had the test done I replaced the cats with Hiflows and put 4 new O2 sensors in.

I have no idea why it failed, I checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. I'm meeting a mechanic friend tomorrow morning at his shop to see if we can find out why.

Anyone have any ideas/suggestions I'd appreciate it.


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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 05:58 PM
 
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add some methyl hydrate to the tank and retard your timing a couple of degrees



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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 07:44 PM
 
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Reconfigure the tables in the computer to compensate for more exhaust flow. Or change the O2 sensors to another type with better sampling capabilities.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 07:56 PM
 
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You didn't put your truck back to stock did you? I've heard that doing that before the test will cause a fail..better to leave it with the tune in it..( talking about the XCAL)..just throwing that out there.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 10:15 PM
 
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even I managed to pass an etest and the only emission stuff left on my truck are the cats!



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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 10:25 PM
 
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I'd think it would be the hi-flo cats.

They don't work as well as oem ones. They don't have much precious metals in them.
If they did they wouldn't be high-flo.


Did you check over all your ignition system components?
make sure its in good condition?
dis. cap? wires? plugs? (making sure they are gaped correctly) air filter? etc. all your basics.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:01 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper238 View Post
I'd think it would be the hi-flo cats.

They don't work as well as oem ones. They don't have much precious metals in them.
If they did they wouldn't be high-flo.


Did you check over all your ignition system components?
make sure its in good condition?
dis. cap? wires? plugs? (making sure they are gaped correctly) air filter? etc. all your basics.

I run hi flo cats and tuning from Troyer like Paul and I pass e tests with flying colors and thats with custom tuning as well


Just a thought..... What tune did you have in your truck when you did the e test stock or Troyer tune I remember you said you had some one change your A/F ratio on your custom tune so that maybe did it for you

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 03:40 AM
 
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I'm not an auto mechanic, just going by what I remember of combustion instrumentation, but here's my guess ...

Based on your 2008 test vs. the current one, for some reason it looks like your combustion looks too rich. Do the tests in Ontario show NOx? If it went down, then somehow things got rich.

As to why, I'd guess it could be a number of things. Blocked or missing air pipe to the cats, O2 sensor problem, dirty or restricted air filter?

You don't mention the check engine light being on, so I assume it's not. Have you had a chance to plug an OBD scanner in? Does it show any stored error codes?

One other possibility is that the test equipment used by the shop is not correctly calibrated or they screwed up the test somehow? Not sure how likely that would be? I don't know how much they usually charge for those tests, but it may be worth getting a second opinion before blowing all kinds of money fixing something that may not actually be broken.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 08:04 AM
 
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easy fix.... find those licence kiosks at a service canada building change your adress to a northern one (if you know someone from the north works even better) buy your sticker (thats now 1/2 the cost of a southern one and theres no etest required up there) now that you have your sticker change your adress back... it may cost $10 for the change but can be worth it.... i havent done this but a buddy has and its worked....


if you can find a good shop sometimes the tech will play around and try to get it to pass theres a few in this area that do it they play with the timing stuff like that.... still wont be a complete "fix" but would give you time to figure out where the problem is.



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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 11:15 PM
 
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WELL hmmm Only a few things come to my mind and well no one on here cares to hear it so blah blah blah " CLIFF your ride " it's a 97 buy something newer

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