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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
folks,
my g/fs 95 stang has its engine light on.
the car overheated, as the rad fan was seized. steam came out the hood and all that not-so-good stuff. she shut it off right away and we added water to fill it up. anyway, the rad fan was replaced and the car has ran great since.
i disconnected the battery (both terminals) for several minutes, in an attempt to reset the computer. when i put the battery back in and started the car (only for 30 sec). just after the next time the car was started the light came back on.

am i not resetting the computer, or could there be something else wrong??
how can i check what codes are present with out paying $150 at ford??
 

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When my Contour SVT water pump impeller fell apart(common issue), we had to replace a handful of sensors becuase of water temp frying sensors. I am looking for paperwork to retreive list, but not likely it was 7 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i borrowed an obd-II reader from crappy tire (returned when finished, lol) and found the codes to be:
DTC P0171, left bank, and DTC P0174, right bank, indicate the fuel/air ratio is too lean. The system is at the rich limit.

the engine light came on when the car overheated. i'm not sure why then and the car seems to run fine. any hints as to why this code may have come in???
oh, and i cleared it and am waiting to see if it comes back or was just and intermitant thing.
 

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i borrowed an obd-II reader from crappy tire (returned when finished, lol) and found the codes to be:
DTC P0171, left bank, and DTC P0174, right bank, indicate the fuel/air ratio is too lean. The system is at the rich limit.

the engine light came on when the car overheated. i'm not sure why then and the car seems to run fine. any hints as to why this code may have come in???
oh, and i cleared it and am waiting to see if it comes back or was just and intermitant thing.
Here you go:

#1
Remove and clean the MAF sensor and clear the codes. If that will not work, check for vacuum leaks.
#2
Check for air leaks around filter housing or vacuum line
and clear the codes.
#3
You may have leaking intake gaskets. They're actually O-rings that separate the upper portion of the intake from the lower. The gaskets get hard and brittle with age, and lose their seal. It's not a hard job to replace the gaskets, just have to remove some stuff to get to them
#4
Make sure you clear all codes.

Hope this helps and keep us posted



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
k, i think i found the problem...keeping my fingers crossed that it is!
the line just after the MAF on the intake line that runs to the oil filler cap was disconnected. i reconnected the hose and disconnected the battery to re-set the computer. i reconnected about a half hour later. i also tried turned on the lights to put a load on the power system as was suggested to, before i reconnected the battery.
i will be driving the car to let it run through its drive cycle to see if it comes back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
maybe don't congratulate me just yet!!
i did find a problem, but the light came back on.
i dunno what im going to do, but i have to find out...its driving me nuts and its uber expensive to have someone look at it!
i was told to use carb cleaner and spray a little at a time (until it evapourates) from the air filter to the cylinder heads w/ the engine running obviously and when the car starts to want to stall or rev high then ive found where the leak is....this may work, i dunno...i'll try it if i can this weekend.
any other hints gents?
 

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