[CONKY]

I am overwhelmed. Having zero experience with rvs I decided to buy a used class C. After a year restoring the "house" part I find myself working on the "Van part". That part is giving me much trouble. Today I will replace the rear ABS sensor in hopes that the intermittent ABS light will go out. Maybe it will cause the speedo to work too, but who knows....could be the TUNER ring inside the differential according to YOUTUBE. anyway I will try the $10 sensor and pray.

Please check the attached FORD label....if anybody can help me with the problems I find every time I do anything on this thing I would love it. And Canadians have always been good sports from my experience.....
Thanks
Ed

 

[Destructicon]

Welcome aboard. It is highly unlikely that the ring inside the differential is a problem. If it is, the differential would likely require a major overhaul. The sensor on the differential is another matter. Cheap and easy to replace, it is a good starting point. Be sure to check the differential oil level while you're under there. Also, check the condition of the wiring going to the sensor. The RABS control module should be up in the dash somewhere, but, being a van body, I'm not sure where it would be. The other part of the RABS system should be near the master brake cylinder. This system should also control the speedometer and indirectly, the cruise control.

 

[CONKY]

Hi D,

Thank you for your time. I need to get some trust and confidence back, this thing is kicking my butt since I drove it 75 miles home last year.

I am not a big car mechanic. I am 63 and owned a VW bug in high school, and my dad had a 1941 Lincoln he was restoring. I have more time than $$$$. Maybe more time than sense too, but so far I have been fairly successful working on this 8 thousand pound rv monster in my driveway.

With encouragement from my neighbor the mechanic, last summer I replaced rear brakes, brake cylinders axle seals and adjusted bearings on the DANA 70 not limited slip. Used a suction pump to replace old dif fluid since rig has 94k miles. Replaced with new motorcraft fluid. So that is good.

At 10:07 in this video,

this guy removes what he determined is a "rusty tone ring". His problem was an erratic electronic speedo on which he replaced the PSOM in a previous video....
My problem was total loss of speedo. Also one of my two serp belts had almost totall failed on my ill-fated test drive last week.

I will install new belts over clean pulley today, since the rain finally stopped.
Stay tuned

Ed

 

[CONKY]

also the shifting was very hard . It has a rebuilt trans with 15k miles on it, also electronically controlled, right?
The ABS module is underneath on D side frame rail near fuel filter. I do not know how to check wiring, but removing the senor wire without breaking the plastic is job 1. New sensor arrives tomorrow.

 

[Destructicon]

It is electronically controlled. Speed sensor and tach (at least in the 7.3 IDI) have to work. Interesting note, if the tone ring were cleaned, it most likely would have solved the problem in the video.

 

[CONKY]

Took ABS and PCM relays to mechanic neighbor for testing, PCM especially was slow to show green, terminals were not clean. Cover had been off fuseblock for some time before I found it crammed next to battery so good chance things got wet. Nice day today so will pull out each fuse, relay whatever and use my new WD40 contact cleaner and vacuum to suck out excess. Ordered new relay (all 3 relays in fuse block are same OG Ford part number). will plug new one into PCM slot. Have not given up yet, thanks for following....

 

[CONKY]

Replaced rear ABS sensor. Removed all items from power dist box, scraped contacts till shiny, tested resistance. Sprayed female slots with WD40 contact cleaner. Reseated each item. Replaced crusty PCM relay.

Why does my 1996 RV have a non functioning OBD2 port in the cab and a functioning OBD 1 port near the battery at left front fender? I read that 1995 was last year for OBD1, but that port does not connect to code reader. OBD 1 does, however......

 

[CONKY]

Clarification: Going to try OBD1 port the old way, with jumper wire for now. Again Youtube has many "experts"

 

[Destructicon]

Correction. You Tube has almost no experts but is a great way to learn from others mistakes. I find myself wondering if you inherited an electrical basket case that someone else created but never finished.

 

[CONKY]

very possible.
Last August I drove it to a local diesel shop for them to do safety check.
That is how I know the OBD1 port works to gather trouble codes, that is how the tech identified a bad (unattached) coolant sensor. He showed me how to use the jumper on the OBD connections. I replaced both sensors, the one to the PCM and the one to the gauge when I did the plugs and wires.

Now that I have done all I know how to, I will see what happens when I turn it on and fire it up again. Going to wait a few days though, it is pretty cold here.... I can review my photos and post some and keep learning how it is supposed to work.
Again, thanks for your help

 

[CONKY]

UPDATE:
Did "hard reset" by disconnecting battery then touched pos and neg leads together, with 10 amp , 1 ohm resistor in between, for 12 minutes.
Turned KEY ON.....no CHARGE warning light on dash. Check engine light on
Started it.
No ABS warning light, no Brake warning light, they used to display then go OFF. CHeck engine light OFF.
All blinkers work, all dash lights OK and blower works.
Allowed it to idle for 7 minutes to "relearn". Sounded good.

Did not drive it. Saving that for another day.

I am going to do what I did to the poer dist box,: remove all fuses and scrape them, then spary females with WD40 contract cleaner. When I am under there will disconnect wiring from brake switch, clean that up the same.

 

[Destructicon]

Let me save you some work. toss the resistor. Disconnect the negative post of the battery, turn on the head lights and let sit for 10 minutes. The fact that the dash lights don't come on when ignition is first on after battery reconnect is disturbing. ABS, brake/parking, alternator lights should all come on and go off shortly after the engine is started. For the computer to relearn it needs to be driven for 15 to 20 minutes after warmup and driven at various speeds including highway speeds. If WD-40 makes an actual contact cleaner then use it lightly on the fuse panel and allow substantial time to dry. BTW - make sure the battery is disconnected before doing this. Wipe the fuses down with a rag lightly dampened with contact cleaner. Again, allow substantial time to dry. Do not use WD-40 penetrating lubricant spray on any of this.

 

[CONKY]

OK.
CRC also makes a spray and the label echoes your warnings.
Maybe the dash lights are worn out?
Waiting for warmer weather, snow and ice on ground today so it is slow going.
Got them all cleaned up though, brake light and wiring looks sound, no bad fuses.....
got the PNW winter blahs...you guys probably used to it...

 

[Destructicon]

Yeah, plan on changing a tie rod while getting snowed on this weekend. Can't stand driving the wife's Dodge that much.

 

[CONKY]

Hope you got that tie rod changed OK...We got a nice day so I gave it a nice slow "relearning".....runs great, shifted good, I am hopeful...
The only idiot light which did not work was the CHARGE WARNING.
The dash VOLT meter looks good, dial pointing to 14 or 15 when driving.

So I lean towards carefully removing the cluster, without tipping to keep the fluid good, and replacing ALL the bulbs with 194LL......If I knew how to check idiot light without removing the dash I would, but I do not know how or if that is possible...

 

[Destructicon]

What fluid? Take your drink off the dash before removing the cluster. I used LEDs when I did mine. Have watch the polarity. It made for a nice clean look. Didn't get to the tie rod, yet. Going to try to do it this weekend. I really miss my stick shift.

 

[CONKY]

The Haynes manual says there is a fluid sealed in the speedo and I am not supposed to tilt the unit if I remove it. They also want me to remove the steering wheel.
One guy on Youtube leaves it in place and removes the clear plastic. Then he grabs the bulbs and pulls them out towards him.
Other you tuber wrestle the assembly out after putting gear selector in 1 and tilting wheel down. Then bulbs are replaced from the back by removing the little sockets as Ford intended. I will take it apart and decide when I get closer.....

 

[Destructicon]

Never seen any fluid leak out of mine. Don't even recall where any fluid would be. I wouldn't worry about it. I think Hayes is out to lunch and may possibly have spilt their fluid. Tilt the steering down. In your case, put it in first gear. Remove the assembly. Unplug the electrical connectors. Remove the instrument cluster completely. Take it in where it's warm. Remove the bulbs and change them. Do all of them. Murphy's Law states, "If you take something apart with some difficulty and replace only one piece, you will have to do it again in a week."