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Welcome aboard. It is highly unlikely that the ring inside the differential is a problem. If it is, the differential would likely require a major overhaul. The sensor on the differential is another matter. Cheap and easy to replace, it is a good starting point. Be sure to check the differential oil level while you're under there. Also, check the condition of the wiring going to the sensor. The RABS control module should be up in the dash somewhere, but, being a van body, I'm not sure where it would be. The other part of the RABS system should be near the master brake cylinder. This system should also control the speedometer and indirectly, the cruise control.

 

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It is electronically controlled. Speed sensor and tach (at least in the 7.3 IDI) have to work. Interesting note, if the tone ring were cleaned, it most likely would have solved the problem in the video.

 

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Correction. You Tube has almost no experts but is a great way to learn from others mistakes. I find myself wondering if you inherited an electrical basket case that someone else created but never finished.

 

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Let me save you some work. toss the resistor. Disconnect the negative post of the battery, turn on the head lights and let sit for 10 minutes. The fact that the dash lights don't come on when ignition is first on after battery reconnect is disturbing. ABS, brake/parking, alternator lights should all come on and go off shortly after the engine is started. For the computer to relearn it needs to be driven for 15 to 20 minutes after warmup and driven at various speeds including highway speeds. If WD-40 makes an actual contact cleaner then use it lightly on the fuse panel and allow substantial time to dry. BTW - make sure the battery is disconnected before doing this. Wipe the fuses down with a rag lightly dampened with contact cleaner. Again, allow substantial time to dry. Do not use WD-40 penetrating lubricant spray on any of this.

 

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Yeah, plan on changing a tie rod while getting snowed on this weekend. Can't stand driving the wife's Dodge that much.

 

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What fluid? Take your drink off the dash before removing the cluster. I used LEDs when I did mine. Have watch the polarity. It made for a nice clean look. Didn't get to the tie rod, yet. Going to try to do it this weekend. I really miss my stick shift.

 

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Never seen any fluid leak out of mine. Don't even recall where any fluid would be. I wouldn't worry about it. I think Hayes is out to lunch and may possibly have spilt their fluid. Tilt the steering down. In your case, put it in first gear. Remove the assembly. Unplug the electrical connectors. Remove the instrument cluster completely. Take it in where it's warm. Remove the bulbs and change them. Do all of them. Murphy's Law states, "If you take something apart with some difficulty and replace only one piece, you will have to do it again in a week."