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my 1976 ford f100

23122 Views 77 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Lilbigtrk
16
hey guys this is my 1976 ford f100
i've been in the middle of restoring her for the last 4 years
times have been rough going form one job to the next and saving and spending lol but all is well i've been doing a lot of work over the corse of the last summer and this past winter I do have a shit load of pictures i'll post some on here and give you a link to photobucket to chekc the rest out if your intrested

1976 ford f100
351w n/a
4sp hurst link kit
8.8 rear with 3.73 detroit locker
stock every thing else








this was 2 years ago





i had her running open headers for this sound clip



this is how she sits now



i still have alot of work

buddy ay works got a 79 f100
so i'm taking some interrior parts that i dont have
gotta finish little patches on the box i have for it and put it on wiht the wood floor
put the doors back on
then some final touches then she will be getting shiped out to get painted
then all the glass goes in
and she will be a complete truck again

problem is i cant drive it till 03/18/2014
because i'm not 25...yet
so this is why this truck has been under construction for this long
you may see that theres a lot of work ahead of me but really theres not
just big parts arent on the tuck
doors are off cause no room to open them
hoods off cause not enough light under it
box is off for repairs
gotta finish the custom dash for after market guages
the truck is drive able the way she sits but its not recomended

thanks for taking the time to read this and look at my pics
i will be updating this
every weekend, seeing thats the only time i have to work on her

again thanks
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61 - 78 of 78 Posts
2
Benn, here are a couple of pics of Holley throttle linkage. I don't know if you are adjusting the right screw to drop your idle rpm down but the one you need to adjust is shown between where throttle linkage hooks on and secondary linkage is.



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the screw your talking about it the one i was adjusting and had it completly out so the butterflys where damn near closed and it wasnt helping,
but i see how your carb is set theres 2 screws one on either side, thats the part i wanst understanding but now i do, i'l talk a look this weekend and see how things go with it
and my timming was off to start with so thats why i was moving the distributor around, it would idel but when i go to rev up it would spit sputter back fire so its obv off a few degrees, i'm gonna find the right timming finger and marks on my hermonic ballancer and see about timming it with a timming light,
it just hard for me to set this carb right, considering its the first time i'm doing this, i'm use to fuel injected
but its a learning curv and any information would help,
thanks for your help
any more advice would be awesome,
Benn
Am I correct in assuming the high idle started after the carb was rebuilt and re-installed? If so, maybe a vacuum leak. Do you have the correct carb to manifold gasket installed and is your vac advance for your distributor hooked up to ported or direct vacuum. It's been way too many years since I played with this stuff but if you are hooked to direct vacuum your vac advance for dist will be at full advance which I believe will cause your high idle also. So many " what if's " I know but hang in there.
yes it did,
i do have correct gaskets in place
and my vacume advane is hooked to a port on the baseplate
of my carb,
i'm pretty sure thats where i pulled it of when i took the carb off
to have it rebuilt,
ive been going through old pictures and trying to figure it out
but i never did take any close ups,
my carb only has one idle screw on it on the drivers side.
i'm going to have my buddies dad come over tom maybe and
see if he can help me out with getting it going and the timming and every
thing i need,

i'm learning as i go and i'd doing my best with what i have

so bear with me
and thanks for all the help
Benn
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No sweat Benn. I was your age when I used to work on all this stuff on my own cars but memory is a bit foggy now. Let me know how you make out.
Glen.

P.S. Gerry I said foggy not old foggie!
It's OK Glen. We have a bit more patience for the aged and feeble minded. Carry on old friend, we'll let you know when your babbling....................LMAO!!

Gerry
so after today in the shop,
my timing was out buy almost a full cylinder,
hope u guys know what I mean

I put piston #1 to TDC and I had to turn my distributor one point to the drivers side
and she fired right up and sounds a hell of a lot better then it did before.

i'm still having a problem with the idle, I did how ever add a 1inch carb spacer on
and its giving me problems and not wanting to idle right
so its got more air then fuel
so im thinking I should turn out my idle air fuel screws and see if that helps any

but other then that every things going well
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If you've checked all the vacuum lines, (including the brake booster). The only other thing could be the Air/fuel screw. It should not be screwed in all the way. Back it out until it levels out. Have you got a timing mark yet? Try timing it by moving the distributor. you could be too much retarded. That will fuck up the idle. They run a lot better a little advanced, about 5 or 6 degrees.
Glen and I cut our teeth on these dinosaurs. But it's a lot easier when it's sitting in front of us.

Good luck Benn. I hope you can sort it out soon.

Gerry
Hey Benn, sounds like things are starting to come along. Any of us who have had a distributor out have had them go back in a tooth or two off. Just part of the learning curve. We've all had them go in 180 degrees out also because we got in a hurry and had them at TDC on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. Check your fuel levels by removing the screw on the side of the fuel bowl and watch for fuel to just trickle out the hole or level with the bottom of the hole. Adjustment is with the screw and nut on top of the fuel bowl. Idle mixture screws can be adjusted using a vacuum gauge to get highest vacuum and then turn screw in about a1/8 of a turn. You will have to go back and forth from each screw to balance them out. Until you can get the proper timing pointer it's going to be tough the set the timing. Just remember it doesn't take much of a turn to advance 5 or 6 degrees. Once you have the equipment to time it remember to disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor and plug it in order to set timing and then put it back on the vacuum advance. A golf tee works great for temp plug on a vacuum line. Are you running aftermarket spacer or the Ford one with the connection for a brake booster? If you get a minute hook up your vacuum gauge and let me know what you are running for vacuum. Have fun.
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If you've checked all the vacuum lines, (including the brake booster). The only other thing could be the Air/fuel screw. It should not be screwed in all the way. Back it out until it levels out. Have you got a timing mark yet? Try timing it by moving the distributor. you could be too much retarded. That will fuck up the idle. They run a lot better a little advanced, about 5 or 6 degrees.
Glen and I cut our teeth on these dinosaurs. But it's a lot easier when it's sitting in front of us.

Good luck Benn. I hope you can sort it out soon.

Gerry
the only vacuum line I have line I have is for my vac advance
and I've been adjusting the idle fuel screws its getting there to proper timming

my dad and I where working on it sunday trying to figure out what was going on and so far things are getting there
when this motor is running properly I can advsance or retard 4-6 degrees before problems,
thanks gerry

Hey Benn, sounds like things are starting to come along. Any of us who have had a distributor out have had them go back in a tooth or two off. Just part of the learning curve. We've all had them go in 180 degrees out also because we got in a hurry and had them at TDC on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. Check your fuel levels by removing the screw on the side of the fuel bowl and watch for fuel to just trickle out the hole or level with the bottom of the hole. Adjustment is with the screw and nut on top of the fuel bowl. Idle mixture screws can be adjusted using a vacuum gauge to get highest vacuum and then turn screw in about a1/8 of a turn. You will have to go back and forth from each screw to balance them out. Until you can get the proper timing pointer it's going to be tough the set the timing. Just remember it doesn't take much of a turn to advance 5 or 6 degrees. Once you have the equipment to time it remember to disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor and plug it in order to set timing and then put it back on the vacuum advance. A golf tee works great for temp plug on a vacuum line. Are you running aftermarket spacer or the Ford one with the connection for a brake booster? If you get a minute hook up your vacuum gauge and let me know what you are running for vacuum. Have fun.
I have the front and rear floats set, but looking through the screw on the side of the bowl, u give the truck a lil shake and fuel comes out, so its set,
and i'll be getting back to my motor this weekend,
i fought my proper timming pointer/finger, after looking for a few hours.
its on the motor, and my fkin timming light don't work. so
i'm gonna borrow a friends or buy one what ever comes first, lol
i only have one vacuum line
my carb spacer
is i believe a factory for one
1inch alum,
1 vac port, but its been pluged
i had it ground at work so its flat both sides
when i'm in the shop this weekend i will give you the readings of my vac gauge
i'm working straight afternoons Monday-Thursday, 4-10's
so my time in the shop is every weekend unless we have plans,
so i'll do what i can this weekend and see what i can come up with and get this beast running right,
thanks for your help,
Benn
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hey guys

yes its been a while but
I had to pull the carb spacer out couldn't get the bitch to run
so after that, I got her timed and idling between 6-700 rpm
so everything is goo with this issue, carbs all set and she runs like a dream.

things around here have been a little crazy, we are cleaning up shop and moving
so a lot of shits gotta get done around here for us to put it on the market,
hopefully by September October where in our new house, and work on the truck can resume
so for now, as we clean out, i'm getting some work done, not as much as I want to but hey shit happens.

will keep ya'll posted on progress,
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Hey Benn, glad to hear you got it sorted out. That spacer could have been a bit porus and leaking. At least you can enjoy it now.
lol yea
I still got a lot of work today I am up loading pictures not of my
custom dash I made jut gotta fiberglass it tom and bondo and paint
then cut the holes for my gauges , stereo and heat controls,
then gotta figure out where my switches are going
2
heres the pictures
its not perfect, but once i do the fiberglass work its gonna be nice and flat,


I did shave the ash trey and the glove box, i was missing parts to the glove box and its to small so i just shaved it.
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The dash should look pretty cool once you are done.
it will
i'll be doing the fiber glassing Monday,
as we clean out the shop today started my truck and pulled it out and
got my mothers car out of the garage
and then for some reason I didn't get it on camara
but I did a break stand up my drive way
i'll get pictures of the marks I left
it was pretty sweet lol
then I put my truck in the back of the garage
and I can still work on it i just gotta move moms car


i'm surprised the cops didn't show up this time, haha
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So I got the fiber glass done just need pics gotta do 2 more layers of fiberglass before I'm done its still a lil week so I'm hoping after this is done it will be strong enough
Then I'll mark in my gauges and start drilling then I'll sand and bondo for a smooth cover
Then paint and she can go back in

Sent from my HTC Amaze 4g using tapatalk 2
2
Well all the fiber glass is done
Now gotta let it sit over night to cure
Then I can sand and drill out for my gauges and bondo
And I also gotta trim

And the back


Sent from my HTC Amaze 4g using tapatalk 2
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